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St.Agnes : A place of Contrasts
St. Agnes - A place of contrasts that compliment - from
wooded valleys and deep dark tin mines, to light airy seascapes
that constantly change from a mirror of pewter, through
a thousand shades of blue ,to brilliant aquamarine and
crashing surf. An ancient, Celtic Landscape laced with
small fields, moorland and erotically shaped cliffs and
islands carved by the sea, with always the looming, yet
friendly, bulk of the Beacon in the background. Old legends
abound - the Giant Bolster, who rears his head every spring
in search of the lovely maid St. Agnes. The intriguing
legend of the Cuckoo, who villagers tried to prevent flying
away by building a high stone wall (the Giants Hedge).
Thus St. Agnes is known as "Cuckoo Land". Old tales of
ghosts and Cornish Knockers...
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| There are charming and different little coves and stretches
of sand, interspersed with the ruins of mine engine houses standing
sentinel on the valley sides and cliff tops, including the famous
Wheal Coates owned by the National Trust. The village itself is a
higgledy, piggledy mix of houses and alleyways, old pubs and shops,
with the main street winding slowly downhill, past a row of cottages
(known as "Stippy Stappy") and ending up at the intriguing Trevaunance
Cove, where boats were once built, with its stunning scenery of rocks,
shingle and sand, dark eerie caves and little boats, the ruined Harbour
and fabulous rock pools. The wandering paths along the cliff tops,
with glimpses of weird rock shapes, Green Islands and Bawden Rocks,
translucent pools, and the odd seal or dolphin, are a haven for nesting
seabirds, peregrine falcons, guillemots, and always in the background,
you are aware of the salt tang of the sea, sometimes a whisper of
surf, sometimes the crashing roar of a gale. Flowers abound)forming
a mosaic of golden gorse or "Fuzz", various forms of purple heath
and heather and in springtime brilliant drifts of blue sea squill,
yellow rattle and carpets of pink thrift please the eye. In one direction
you can walk to Chapel Porth (past Wheal Coates) a fabulous stretch
of sand, renowned for surfing and known as the Badlands. In the other
direction, rocky Trevellas Porth and the wonderfully named Blue Hills,
where an interesting old Tin Stamp has been lovingly restored, on
up the atmospheric and mysterious Jericho Valley to John Opies thatched
cottage, one of Cornwalls most famous artists of years gone by. |
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The people can only be described
as friendly and lively who inhabit St. Agnes. As well as several
old
families, they come from many different places, and every
walk of life - all bound by their affection for this magnetic
area. There are 50 odd organisations, from the Theatre Players
to the Silver Band, the Rugby Club to the Quay Fisherman,
with a Surf Club and the RNLI Lifeboat, and numerous others.
There is always something going on - the Carnival, Fetes
and Fairs, music and theatre, Regattas and fishing contests
- infinito. The shops also reflect the area, with numerous
and interesting galleries, potteries and design workshops
as well as the usual grocers, butchers and fruit shops. There
is a traditional small, old bakery still baking delicious
bread, an interesting museum, bookshops, antiques and as
a contrast, the Aggie Surfshop. Pubs and eating-places abound
- from small cafes and fish & chips, to hotels and restaurants
doing fabulous seafood and a la carte meals. This village
is famous for its old pubs - you can do a traditional pub
crawl - park your car in the free car park and visit the
Railway, a cosy bar, famous for its collection of old shoes
and memorabilia. Meander on down to the St. Agnes Hotel,
a warm welcoming place with a collection of village and nautical
bits and pieces. Fall down the hill to Peterville, where
the lively Taphouse Bar and Porters Ale House can be found.
Then, if you can, stagger on down to Trevaunance Cove where
you will be rewarded with a visit to the well-known Driftwood Spars, with its welcoming log fire, enormous ships
timbers and vast range of real ales (one brewed on the premises). |
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